Ntawm no koj yuav kawm paub tias kev tsim cov tshuaj pleev ib ce zoo li cas, uas cov roj tau ua lub hauv paus ntawm cov khoom thiab yuav ua li cas cov khoom no tau faib los ntawm kev sib xyaw thiab lub hom phiaj. Cov tshuaj nplaum yog ib daim ntawv nrov ntawm cov tshuaj pleev tawv nqaij. Cov khoom no yog siv los ntawm cov neeg feem coob, tsis hais hnub nyoog li cas. Tau kawg, muaj qhov tshwj xeeb xav tau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce uas tawm tsam cov tawv nqaij qhuav, qhuav thiab tawv nqaij.
Qhov tshwj xeeb ntawm cov nplaum thiab nws keeb kwm
Cov keeb kwm ntawm cov tshuaj pleev hnub rov qab rau lub ntiaj teb puag thaum ub, thaum tib neeg pib ua kom cov dej noo thiab tiv thaiv lawv cov tawv nqaij los ntawm qhov tsis zoo ntawm ib puag ncig sab nraud (cua, te, hnub ci). Lawv ua kom tawv nqaij nrog cov roj tau muab rho tawm los ntawm tsiaj thiab zaub roj, siv cov zaub mov pub dawb los ntawm xwm. Cov khoom siv tshuaj no tau ntxiv nrog ntau yam dej paj, tshuaj ntsuab infusions, ntxiv los ntawm cov nroj tsuag, thiab lwm yam.
Txij li thaum peb tab tom tham txog keeb kwm ntawm tshuaj pleev ib ce, nws tsim nyog hais txog cov neeg txawj ntse Ptahotep thiab Imhotep, lawv yog cov uas tau npaj cov tshuaj pleev raws cov nroj tsuag thiab cov roj tsw qab rau cov pov thawj thiab pharaohs.
Tus kws kho mob Hippocrates tau koom nrog hauv kev npaj cov zaub mov txawv rau cov laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij, nws dhau nws txoj kev paub rau ntau tus thwjtim, suav nrog Diocles.
Kev coj noj coj ua ntawm kev huv thiab kev nyiam huv tau ua raws hauv Ancient Greece. Ua ntej, lub ntsej muag thiab lub cev raug ntxuav thiab ua kom huv, tom qab ntawd cov txheej txheem thov tshwj xeeb nourishing thiab moisturizing cream tau tshwm sim.
Raws li rau cov roj siv hauv kev tsim cov cream, cov roj txiv roj tau ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv Mediterranean, pab pawg neeg ntawm Africa tau siv raffia xibtes roj ua lub hauv paus ntawm cov tshuaj nplaum, tab sis hauv Oceania lawv siv sib xyaw ntawm xibtes thiab roj av roj.
Hauv Rome thaum ub, Claudius Galen, thaum tseem yog tus kws kho mob tus kheej ntawm Emperor Marcus Aurelius, tau tsim cov tshuaj nplaum puv los ntawm sawv hydrolate, roj almond, zib ntab thiab sawv tsis tau. Qhov kev tsim kom zoo nkauj no hu ua "khaub thuas txias" ua kom cov dej noo zoo thiab txhawb nqa cov tawv nqaij, tab sis, tib lub sijhawm, txhaws me ntsis ntawm lub qhov hws, cov ciab tsis tso cai rau cov tawv nqaij kom puv nrog cov pa.
Cov kua nplaum niaj hnub no, txawm li cas los xij, zoo li ntau pua xyoo dhau los, suav nrog cov rog, dej lossis hydrolate, nrog rau cov khoom xyaw nquag. Txij li cov rog tsis yaj hauv dej, emulsifiers tau suav nrog hauv kev tsim.
Dab tsi yog cov tshuaj pleev kom zoo nkauj faib ua?
Nkag mus rau hauv lub khw muag tshuaj pleev ib ce, ntau yam qab zib tau nthuav tawm uas tuaj yeem txheeb tau los ntawm kev muaj pes tsawg leeg (rog thiab emulsion), ntxiv rau lub hom phiaj (noj zaub mov zoo, ua kom dej huv, ntxuav, kho, thiab lwm yam). Txhua hom cream yog cim nrog ib lossis lwm tus yam ntxwv, txhua tus ua tsaug rau kev ua tib zoo xav tawm daim ntawv qhia ntawm cov tuam ntxhab.
Kev faib ua feem
Raws li lawv muaj pes tsawg leeg, qab zib tau faib ua cov rog thiab emulsion. Thawj qhov kev xaiv yog ua raws stearin, roj av jelly lossis lanolin, uas yog cov roj zaub, cov vitamins, cov roj yam tseem ceeb thiab lwm yam khoom siv tshuaj.
Raws li rau qhov tsis hnov tsw ntawm cov khoom lag luam, nws tsis muaj ib txoj hauv kev txiav txim siab qhov zoo ntawm cov khoom. Feem ntau, cov khoom xyaw ntxiv tau ntxiv kom ntxhiab ntawm cov hauv paus rog tsis tau hais tawm.
Nyob rau hauv lem, emulsion cream tau muab faib ua emulsions:
- Roj-dej (cov tee roj tau tawg hauv dej).
- Dej-roj (cov dej hauv cov roj).
Yog tias cov kua dej-emulsion qab zib tau siv los ua cov tshuaj pleev kom zoo nkauj, tom qab ntawd lwm hom tsis yog cov kua sib xws, tab sis tuab dua, thiab tau tsom mus rau kev tawm tsam cov pob txha, ua kom qhuav ntau thiab lwm yam teeb meem ntawm daim tawv nqaij.
Kev faib tawm los ntawm lub hom phiaj
Nrog txheeb cov cream raws li lawv lub hom phiaj xav tau, peb tau txais cov pab pawg hauv qab no: ntxuav, nourishing, moisturizing, matting, rejuvenating, anti-cellulite, tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub, tiv thaiv, tonal, tshuaj, menyuam yaus (ntaub pawm), nruab hnub thiab hmo ntuj.
- Cleansing Creams tau npaj rau kev ntxuav cov tawv nqaij los ntawm hmoov av, av, nrog rau los ntawm cov seem uas tsis tau ntxuav kom huv. Ntawm kev muag khoom koj tuaj yeem pom cov mis uas maj mam ua rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij, ua kom huv huv jelly lossis ua kom tuab tuab, txhua tus ntawm lawv muaj peev xwm saib xyuas cov kab mob hauv lub ntsws. Nws raug nquahu kom khaws cov khoom zoo li ntawm lub ntsej muag rau ob feeb, tom qab ntawd yaug nrog dej (yog tias nws yog gel lossis mis nyuj), siv daim ntaub so ntswg lossis paj rwb ncoo. Rau kev ntxuav kom zoo dua, daim tawv nqaij maj mam zaws nrog cov ntsis ntiv tes. Ua tib zoo saib, yog tias koj xaiv cov khoom lag luam rau cov tawv nqaij oily, saib mus rau qhov muaj pes tsawg leeg, seb puas muaj cov khoom siv uas ua haujlwm ntawm cov qog sebaceous.
- Nourishing qab zib feem ntau yog siv ua khoom tu tawv nqaij thaum tsaus ntuj. Lawv lub luag haujlwm loj nyob ntawm qhov muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm cov khoom. Qee cov cream sib ntaus sib tua pigmentation, lwm tus sib ntaus kom qhuav, tseem lwm tus sib ntaus kab laug sab leeg, thiab lwm yam. Hauv cov khoom noj qab haus huv, cov roj ua ntu ntu yuav siv qhov feem pua ntau dua li cov nruab hnub nruab hnub. Lawv kuj tau sau tseg rau qhov muaj ntau yam tshuaj nquag uas ua tau zoo daws cov haujlwm uas tau teev tseg. Siv cov nplaum rau ntawm koj lub ntsej muag 2 teev ua ntej yuav mus pw, tom qab ib ntus, tshem cov seem nrog daim ntaub so tes.
- Moisturizing qab zib yuav tsum tau siv los ntawm txhua tus neeg, tsis hais hom tawv nqaij. Txawm hais tias koj xav kom tshem tawm cov roj pleev rau ntawm koj lub ntsej muag thiab xav tias tsis tas yuav siv cov qab zib no, ib qho tawv nqaij xav tau kev noo. Qhov muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm cov khoom no suav nrog cov tshuaj uas tiv thaiv lub cev qhuav dej, cov no suav nrog cov vitamins, cov khoom tsis muaj dej thiab cov enzymes.
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Cov cuab yeej tiv thaiv pab cov tawv nqaij los daws qhov tsis zoo ntawm ib puag ncig. Cua, te, cua sov, lub teeb ci ultraviolet - txhua qhov no thiab tsis tsuas yog ua rau cov tawv nqaij muaj hnub nyoog, ua rau nws nkag mus tau ntau ntxiv, pab txhawb rau qhov pom ntawm hnub nyoog me ntsis, pob txuv thiab lwm yam teeb meem ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Cov tawv nqaij yog cov ntaub thaiv npog ntuj uas tiv thaiv kab mob, av, tshuaj lom neeg los ntawm kev nkag mus thiab ua rau lub cev puas tsuaj, yog li nws yuav tsum tau saib xyuas tas li, ua kom noo thiab txhawb nqa nrog cov txiaj ntsig zoo.
Cov tshuaj tiv thaiv tso cai rau lub cev rov ua rau daim tawv nqaij, tiv thaiv kom tsis txhob ya raws, thiab tseem tiv thaiv cov tshuaj phem los ntawm kev nkag mus rau hauv cov txheej tob ntawm daim tawv nqaij.
- Raws li roj pleev tuaj yeem siv matte thiab tonal emulsions. Ntxiv rau qhov muaj peev xwm npog qhov tsis zoo ntawm daim tawv nqaij, cov khoom lag luam ua kom tawv nqaij thiab muaj cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub thiab ntau yam vitamins. Yog tias koj piv cov khoom lag luam matte thiab lub hauv paus, tom qab ntawv thawj zaug koj yuav tau txais cov nplaum uas yooj yim nqus thiab ua rau daim tawv nqaij matte, txhim kho qhov xwm txheej ntawm oily sheen ntawm lub ntsej muag. Lub hauv paus tseem ceeb ntawm cov hauv paus, suav nrog cov zas xim hauv tus nqi ntawm 3 txog 25%, yog pleev thiab hmoov.
- Hmo ntujZoo li cov tshuaj pleev ib hnub, cov tshuaj yuav tsum tau teev nyob hauv tus poj niam lub hnab ntim tshuaj pleev ib ce, vim tias thaum koj tsaug zog, cov khoom zoo li no ua kom tawv nqaij ntxaum nrog cov khoom noj muaj txiaj ntsig, rov kho cov kab mob stratum corneum, tua pob txuv, rosacea, mob, thiab lwm yam. Cov nplaum zoo tau sau tseg rau cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov vitamins A thiab E, royal jelly, panthenol, aloe vera gel thiab lwm yam khoom uas muaj txiaj ntsig zoo rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij.
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TO cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kev laus tuaj yeem suav nrog cov khoom lag luam uas muaj cov kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo. AHAs, lossis alpha hydroxy acids, yog txhawm rau ua kom qeeb cov txheej txheem kev laus ntawm daim tawv nqaij los ntawm kev yaj cov tshuaj uas tuav cov cell tuag ua ke, thiab, tom qab ntawd, ua kom nrawm ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Siv cov kua nplaum nrog cov kua qaub, yog li, koj txhim kho cov txheej txheem ntawm kev rov ua haujlwm ntawm tes, txo thiab tiv thaiv kom pom cov pob txuv thiab hnub nyoog me ntsis. Raws li qhov txiaj ntsig ntawm kev siv cov khoom lag luam nrog ANA, uas suav nrog citric, malic, tartaric, txiv hmab, lactic, kojic acids, cov tawv nqaij ua ntau dua thiab du.
Yog tias koj twb tau yuav cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kev laus nrog cov kua qaub, tsis txhob maj thov nws rau ntawm koj lub ntsej muag, vim thawj zaug koj yuav tsum ua qhov kev ntsuas rhiab. Siv me me ntawm koj lub dab teg thiab saib rau qhov khaus, khaus, lossis ua rau ntawm koj cov tawv nqaij. Yog tias qhov kev xeem ua tiav, koj tuaj yeem pib siv koj lub ntsej muag rau cov kua qaub. Rau kev siv hauv tsev, cov nplaum yog qhov tsim nyog, uas tsis muaj ntau dua 4% cov kua qaub, txwv tsis pub, cov txheej txheem saib xyuas yuav tig mus rau qhov kev poob siab vim yog qhov ua rau khaus khaus ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Raws li rau cov khw txiav kom zoo nkauj, muaj kev mloog zoo ntau nyob rau ntawd, thaum cov lus qhia rau kev siv tshuaj nrog cov tshuaj no tau nruj me ntsis.
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Sunscreens ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv kev ua kom cov tawv nqaij laus zuj zus, vim tias lawv tau tsom mus rau kev tiv thaiv daim tawv nqaij los ntawm hluav taws xob ultraviolet. Cov khoom no yuav tsum siv los ntawm txhua tus, tsis hais poj niam txiv neej thiab hnub nyoog li cas. Txhawm rau txiav txim siab tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub ntawm cov khoom lag luam loj, saib cov ntawv luv SPF ntawm pob lossis txheeb tawm qhov muaj pes tsawg leeg. Lub cev lim dej tsim cov titanium dioxide thiab zinc oxide. Cia peb nco qee cov tshuaj lim dej uas siv los ua cov tshuaj tiv thaiv UV:
- Avobenzone. Nws tuaj yeem pom hauv qab cov npe hauv qab no: butyl methoxy-dibenzoyl-methane, Eusolex 9020, Parsol 1789, Escalol 517, BMBM, BMDBM.
- Mexoril. Nws yog: Mexoryl SX - terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, TDSA, ecamsule; Mexoryl XL - drometrizole trisiloxane, ecamsule.
- Octocrylene. Lub lim dej no tuaj yeem zais hauv qab cov npe Uvinul N539T, Eusolex OCR, OCR.
- Tinosorb. Nrhiav nws hauv qab bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, anisotriazine, Escalol S, BEMT, bemotrizinol Tinosorb S Aqua, MBBT, bisoctrizole methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol.
Kuj tseem muaj cov ntxaij lim dej ntuj uas suav nrog cov roj hauv paus, suav nrog raspberry, shea, carrot, jojoba, txiv maj phaub, avocado, noob nplej. Koj yuav tsum tsis txhob cia siab tsuas yog siv roj ntuj raws li kev tiv thaiv los ntawm lub hnub ci, nws yog qhov zoo dua los xaiv cov khoom lag luam zoo uas muaj roj, lub cev thiab tshuaj lim dej.
